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Fashion Designers A to F

Amies, Hardy

Born 1909, London, UK. The house specialized in tweed suits for women. He has designed day dresses for the Queen. He is also known for his puff-sleeved evening dresses and lavish ball gowns. In 1962 he became the first women's couturier to design for men. Designed costumes on Stanley Kubrick's '2001 A Space Odyssey' and others. He had an international reputation as both a womenswear and menswear designer. died at the age of 93.

Armani, Giorgio

Born 1934. Piacenza, Italy. His own menswear collection was launched in 1974, with a womenswear collection in 1975. One of the most influential designer of the 80's. Understated garments, supple lines and minimalist look of his clothes for both men and women. Many of his ladies clothes follow similar principles to his menswear. Using men's wear fabrics in unstructured jackets and suits for women. Understated elegance with easy fit garments, precisely cut and tailored.

Ashley, Laura

Born 1925, Merthyr Tydfil, Wales. UK. Founded a company with her husband in 1953. Producing printed headscarves and tea towels. In 1958 designed a short sleeved smock top made from 100% cotton. In the 60's and 70's Well known for her prints, patch pockets, smock type garments. Edwardian style dresses many with high frilly collars. Rustic, romantic fabrics with flowery patterns. Influenced by Victorian fabrics based on tiny geometric patterns, prints, flowers, spots and stripes. Mostly in cotton or cotton mix, or jersey fabrics. Laura died in 1985

Burberry, Thomas

In 1891 Burberry established a wholesale business in London. Invented gabardine, a breathable but waterproof fabric. Specialised in  making gabardine clothes for active leisure pursuits. Died aged 91.

The Burberry check (Red, white, black and camel check, known as the 'Nova') was registered in 1924, and it was used in a range of outside garments and accessories in the late 60's. During the 80's the brand became popular with the British Football cult. Recently the Burberry brand has become prominent after a catwalk re launch in 1999 with designs targeted at men and women in the 18-25 age range. Collections designed around a series of outerwear looks in a densely woven wool or sturdy canvas with the Burberry logo and check.

Chanel, Coco

Fashion Designer born 1883, France. Throughout the 1920's she introduced many fashion ideas: Tweed skirts with sweater and pearl necklace. She showed that women could wear pants. Popularised the 'Little Black Dress'. Collarless cardigan jackets, patch pockets. knee length tweed skirts. Simple 'little boy' look chemise dresses with round or straight necklines, hung loose to mid calf and worn with waist or hip belts.  Came up with the timeless Number 5 perfume.
Other fashion innovations include bell bottom pants for women, oversize flat black bows, gilt buttons on blazers, sling back sandals and handbags with gilt chains. After the war Chanel's neat suits became a symbol of traditional elegance. Her designs with popular in Hollywood during the glamorous 50's and 60's. Coco Chanel died 1971.

Diesel

Renzo Rosso. Born 1955 Italy. Hard edged street wear fashion. Distinctive worn looking denim Jeans with the unmistakable red stitching on the back pockets. Jeans with holes in them which appeal to both young and not so young, teamed up with blouse or jacket on casual workdays. Diesel Fashion wear for clubbing. Also Diesel underwear, jewellery, footwear, children's wear, perfume, eyewear, hats, jackets, t-shirts and accessories.

Dior, Christian

Born 1905, Normandy, France. Influential fashion designer of the late 1940's and 1950's. Dominated fashion after World war II, know mainly for his 1947 'New Look' : hourglass figure which had long wide skirts which blossomed out from erupting from constricted waists, and stiffened, boned bodices. Over the years Dior introduced his version of the Coolie hat, and a popular Princess Line which gave the illusion of a high waist. Many of his collections featured three-quarter length sleeves and stoles.
In 1954 Dior started a range of men's suiting named the H Line, mainly for evening wear. The A-Line and Y-Line, featured large V-shaped collars and giant stoles followed. The Orient inspired Dior's Caftan and Cheongsam. Followed by a high-waisted, spaghetti-strapped Chiffon Dress and a long-length Sheath. Oriental Tunic Dresses, a beltless Chemise Dress with standaway collar and patch pockets. Dior favoured black, navy, blue and white, accessorised by pinning broaches to the neck and ropes of pearls. Died 1957

DKNY

Donna Karan New York. 1985 was the year of Donna Karans first new collection. Understated urban classics. Bodysuit over which short skirts, blouse or pants make a complete integrated wardrobe. Luxurious materials. Specialises in well tailored men's and womenswear without excess detail or overt sexiness. Jackets, shirts, lingerie, handbags, footwear, bold accessories and perfume.

Dolce & Gabbana

Fashion Design Studio 1982. Dolce born 1958, Sicily. Gabbana born 1962, Italy.  1987 created collection influenced by romanticism and voluptuousness, full skirts, ruffled blouses and lace shawls. Later collections included: corset dresses, gangster pinstripe suits, floral embroidered coats, sexy black suits. Rhinestone covered bodice. Adapted from traditional designs from a pre-feminist era which were brought up to date, glamorised and modernised. Fetishistic designs, richly coloured animal prints, underwear as outerwear. Dolce & Gabbana Perfume.

Emanuel, David & Elizabeth

Born United Kingdom. Specialized in off-the shoulder, bouffant-style eveningwear In 1979 they started designing couture clothes plus a ready to wear line. Very feminine dresses and luxurious ball gowns, which were generally full-skirted and made of lace, taffeta, tulle, velvet, Indian silks, and hand-tinted gossamer chiffon. Commissioned to design Lady Diana Spencer's wedding dress in 1981.
Partnership dissolved 1990.
Elizabeth Emanuel. Born 1953. Bridal clothes. Smart understated and comfortable clothes for every occasion.
David Emanuel Couture: Born 1952. Fashion inspired by movies, photography, art, books, women.