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Fashion Designers O to Z

Oldfield, Bruce

Born 1950, London. Freelance designer after graduating in 1973. Set up his own ready-to-wear label and showed his first collection in 1975. Followed by his couture label in 1978. Known for his couture eveningwear which is often glamorous and theatrical. Dressing Hollywood actresses, British royalty and European aristocracy.

Prada, Miuccia

Born 1949. Took over company in 1978 originally founded 1913, Italy, manufacturer of high-quality leather goods. Produces accessories including simple sleek black handbags made from parachute nylon, backpacks stamped with the Prada name. In 1988 Miuccia Prada introduced her first ready-to-wear line. Emphasising earthy colours and a less haute couture look. Trimming parkas with fur, making trench coats and twinsets out of silk fabric. In early 1990's Prada rose to fashion primacy by a look epitomized by thick, square glasses and garish colours known as 'Prada Ugly'. However, best known for elegant streamlined clothes and for giving traditional garments a modern plain look. Widely influential on 21st Century fashion.

Quant, Mary

Born 1934, London. Started designing low-priced avant-garde clothes, geared to the teenage market which made her an household name. Mary Quant's clothes were in tune with 'Swinging London' of the 1960' & 70's. Popularised the Mini Skirt, the Micro-mini skirt, Hot-pants, Paint-box makeup, coloured and patterned tights, skinny rib sweaters and hipster belts. Also a collection of colourful plastic raincoats in PVC. Bright, simple and well-coodinated fashion for everyday and party wear. Crochet tops, waist length and sleeveless. All types of fun clothing from underwear to all year fashions. Since the 70's concentrated on household goods and cosmetics, until a Japanese buy out in 2000.

Rhodes, Zandra

Born 1940's Chatham, UK. Flamboyant British Fashion Designer prominent in International fashion since the late 60's. Creating dreamy, exotic, colourful, glamorous and extrovert designs in brilliant colours, which are dramatic, bold and feminine. Inspired by organic material and nature. Rhodes has a unique way of mixing colour, texture and pattern, handscreening many of her garments on chiffon and silks. An innovative approach to construction of her garments can be seen in her use of reversed exposed seams. Her exotic evening dresses often have uneven handkerchief points. Rhodes has produced felt coats with pinked edges, quitted tunics and embroidered satin garments. Her signatures are Art Deco motifs, zigzags, feminine floating chiffon dresses.

Saint Laurent, Yves

Born 1936 Algeria. His early collections were noted for their unexpected fine quality. After winning first prize  for his asymmetrical cocktail dress in 1954 he went to work for Christian Dior. Saint Laurent became Dior's Haute Couture designer at age 21 where he produced the trapeze dress. Later started his own Paris house in 1961. Frequently uses ethnic themes in his garments, bright colours contrasted with black. Famous for 'Le Smoking' tuxedo jacket, see-through blouses, peasant blouses, bolero jackets, pantsuits and smocks, the 'Beatnik' look: turtleneck sweaters, thigh high boots, short jackets. His day clothes have a slightly masculine look, and his luxurious evening wear is tinged with fantasy. Later collections inspired the power dressing image for executive women which consists of well tailored trouser suits and broad-shouldered suits adapted from the male wardrobe. Including blazers, raincoats and overcoats. Smart, stylish and casual. Also his famous 'Little Black Dress', sweaters and billowing skirts. Influential mainly in the 70's and 80's. Although the haute couture workshops are now closed, the Yves Saint Laurent name still continues with his ready to wear and cosmetic range acquired by Gucci.

Strauss, Levi

Born 1829 Bavaria. Arrived California 1850's. Spent several years on the roads of Kentucky selling cloth provided by his brothers who had established a textile and tailoring business in New York. After gold was discovered in San Francisco, Strauss traveled there with a supply of cloth, most of which was already sold during the journey, apart from rolls of strong Canvas. He observed that gold prospectors clothes were not able to withstand the vigorous work, therefore he used his rolls of canvas to make overalls. He later developed canvas overalls with copper rivets at stress points which were very durable and soon became popular. Then for added comfort he began using denim which he dyed blue with indigo, and produced a patented version which became extremetly popular workwear for gold minors, cowboys and ranchers. Durable denim blue jeans are today worn by people of all walks of life, for workwear and casual wear, and all age groups.

Sui, Anna

Born 1955 USA. Anna Sui Draws on a variety of cultural influences, with flair and humour. Boutiques in New York and Asia. Giving a contemporary twist to many vintage styles including Baby Doll and 60's fashions. Along with witty accessories. In 1999 launched her signature fragence and cosmetic line.

Versace, Gianni

Born 1946 Italy. First success came in 1972 and in 1978 opened his first boutique in Milan. Created suede and leather collections and evening clothes. Famous for his strong psychedelic colour combinations and clean lines. He liked to wrap the female form often with Bias cut clothes and fluid lines. Classical historical references blend with bold geometric shapes and complex textures in brilliant colours. He liked to crate sexy clothes for his women, skin-tight with low cuts and high slits on the skirts. Versace was among the first to revive the cat suit, to bring back the mini skirt, to show tights worn as trousers, to bring the bustier out at night and bead it. Gianni Versace designed the sensual T-shirt-and-pastel-jacket look for Miami Vice TV series of the 80's, a fresh style that would influence the decade. In 1982 his collection introduced metallic garments that would become his trademark. He also created designs for operas and ballets, and elaborate stage costumes for Elton John.
Gianni was tragically shot dead in 1997 at his home in Miami. His sister Donatella Versace took over his business and continued the family trademark of bright colours and designs.

Westwood, Vivienne

Born 1941 Glossop, UK. Began Fashion Designing in 1971 representing an anarchic urban youth culture mainly for Rockers. By 1976 produced her outrageous Punk collections of studded, buckled and strapped clothes, adorned with zips and chains. T-shirts with slogans, zoot suits. Punk and New Wave styles with rips, safety pins, razor blades, lavatory chains, spiked dog collars as well as jewellery and outrageous make-up and hair. Followed by 'World's End' and the Pirate Collection in 1981. Vivienne Westwood designs are now accepted in mainstream fashion.

Yohji Yamamoto

Born 1943 Japan. Started his own company in 1972. First collection Y's Y's crated in the mid 70's. Sculpturally swathes and wraps the body in unstructured, loose, voluminous garments. Many of his clothes have additional flaps, pockets and straps. Women's collection based on men's garments. Uncluttered shapes, washed fabrics, dark colours. Tailored suits and fitted shirts, t-shirts and sweaters. Y's and Y's for men practical day to day wear. Y-3 designer collaboration with Adidas sport look. Also perfumes, shoes, accessories.